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Crossing the Pond: Before we can really get into the meat of the day 1 adventure to Mexico,
I have to back up and start with the planning part. We had originally scheduled this trip for June but had the landing gear
issue which made us postpone the trip until now. We were a bit more apprehensive about August as the hurricanes can come fast
and furious this time of year and we all know that early in the season in June, we have not hit the building storms and the
chances of hurricanes are less. We got lucky with being between storms so we caught our first break there.
We
came to a little island called Holbox Island to swim with the whale sharks. There is an airstrip here which is basically private,
owned by AeroSaab. Having “Aero” anything in the name would normally lead me to believe that this is an airline.
It is, of sorts, but very small with a fleet of planes which are kin-folk to Wild Mama. The capacity of this runway at Holbox
is 5 aircraft. The internet site stated GPS coordinates which we had not even questioned as being correct . . . Until we purchased
our charts and plotted the coordinates and found ourselves about 60 miles west of where we thought we should be. We took a
wild stab at the fact the 88 degrees should have been 87 degrees to give ourselves the second set of coordinates for the island.
Not feeling too warm and fuzzy, we e-mailed the hotel where were had our reservations at the airport and asked for a fresh
set of coordinates. The next day, all fresh, we received a third set of coordinates. Still not hitting our comfort zone, we
logged on to the free version of Google Earth to see of we could get a satellite image somewhat resembling the photos on the
web site, feeling confident that AT LEAST the photos were correct.. Lo and behold we found a photo AND could identify the
runway. We set our pointer over the runway to come up with our fourth set of coordinates for our intended destination. We
also printed out a photo being confident that the low tech method of flying the coastline and using our eyeballs would work
at least as well as all our high tech gadgetry. Having narrowed down our intended destination, we began the process
of actually planning the trip. I had contacted AOPA and they advised me to hit the MYDIA intersection to remain clear of Cuban
Airspace. We had gotten and actually studied the DOD charts, ONC J-25, the Jeppesen Mexico trip kit and we have the Americas
in the 430 and worldwide navigation in the MX 20. We had read the information from the Baja Adventures about crossing the
border and printed excerpts from the Manual of Tourist Entry from the Mexican Customs; the Flying to Mexico Guide; the AOPA
guide to Mexican flight rules; and the Guidelines for Entrance to Mexico of Foreign Aircraft. We had lots of confidence in
our magic carpet making the crossing of “Big Blue” but we were less confident in the paperwork portion of our
program. We located Asur FBO and e-mailed them to assist us with the arrival, customs and flight plans in Mexico. Now we felt
a little better about the paperwork.
We made our plan carefully both directions taking consideration of
the amount of fuel we carried and knowing that could be an issue if we had a normal head winds in both directions trip. The
trip direct from LaBelle would take us about 3-½ hours. Perfect. Our return will necessitate a stop for customs in
Key West - 3:09 by our calculations. Since it was just over 1-½ hours X14 to KEYW it was definitely best to go straight
and avoid the second fuel stop and climb out. So the night before we filed the flight plan IFR from X14 to MYDIA - ROBIN -
MMUN. We checked the weather forecasts; loaded and fuel Wild Mama and planned for departure at 1200 z.
We
were wheels up right on schedule. We planned to climb out to 10,000’ by the time we hit the coastline. We radioed Fort
Myers approach and got “Cleared as Filed”. Music to our ears. ATC held us at 4,000’ to get by the RSW airspace,
then directed us to climb to 9,000 and fly heading of 180 . . . to Key West. Seems they had a route change for us: X14 - EYW
- CANOA - MYDIA - ROBIN - MMUN. This made our flight now over 4-½ hours leaving us less than 1 hour of fuel reserve.
We advised ATC that we desired a shorter route whereupon they redirected us through what we though was Cuban Air space. Our
eyes grew larger. We questioned ATC and found of that the Cuban Extended Airspace is NOT the prohibited Cuban airspace but
basically space where you will be talking to Habana Center, and perfectly lawful to fly though without the necessity of permission
from Fidel. The routing from CANOA was VINKA - NOSAT - MEDUX. This gave us an anticipated flight time of 3:20; but it put
our time crossing into Mexican Airspace 25 minutes past what we had put in the flight plan. It was amended accordingly.
So here we are flying along . . . nothing but blue: beautiful blue skies; crystal clear blue waters; chilling
blue screens on the MX20 and 430. We remained out of the sight of land for nearly 3 hours which gave us the time we needed
to check on those silly little brown triangles at CANOA and other intersections. Here is where that Florida training has reared
its ugly head again. For those who fly out west in the land of class G, compulsory reporting points are probably a daily routine.
Not in Florida. We dusted off our “King” trained brain cells to recall the requirements for the compulsory reports.
Then back to the blue.
The remainder of the flight was really, well, completely uneventful. It was interesting
to talk to Habana and listen to ATC rattle off instructions in both English and Spanish. We had no trouble at all with the
accents as the controllers were extremely well versed in English. We crossed into Mexican Airspace and the crossing was, well,
very uneventful. We landed in Cancun and were directed to the customs area at Asur where we were greeted by the Asur personnel
who were expecting us. Our Mexican arrival was not the boogie-man we had feared, but was, well, very uneventful. They checked
our paperwork, passports, luggage (please leave YOUR bananas at home or eat them before you land) and joked around with my
husband, Mario. We paid our landing fees of $50 US in cash. We then paid our FBO fees and fueled up with about 50 gallons;
paid the immigration fees and ramp fee with our American Express and the bill was about $278 US. We were pleased. The FBO
assisted us and filed the flight plan to Holbox, carted our luggage back to the plane and bid us “hasta luego”
until our Monday morning return. We made a very uneventful departure to Holbox, although it was quite fun being sandwiched
between commercial jumbo jets and being told to “line up on the runway and wait” instead of the “taxi to
position and hold” as we are accustomed to hearing.
We flew out toward to coastline and over the city
of Cancun at 1500’ watching the sea of multicolored houses lined up block after block. We skirted the coast to the north
and found that our picture of Holbox was accurate as were the coordinates of 21 degrees 30’ 52” N and 87 degrees
23’ 04” W as given to us by the pilot were correct. We made a landing on runway 3, being careful not to mistake
the road for the runway as the road was a bit bigger and in better condition. Hurricane Wilma passed through this area last
October and made quite a mess of things but the area is coming back very strong. The main terminal building and passenger
waiting area have not quite been fully restored, but the fact that no more than 5 people can arrive at any one time will certainly
not overwhelm the terminal.
We were greeted by Victor Saab (remember AeroSaab). His hospitality was overwhelming.
We chatted up a storm while the military guard stood by collecting information on our arrival and intended departure. Our
bags were swiftly delivered to our rooms and we hit the beach for some relaxation.
The hotel is right at
the airport - Hotel Puerto Holbox. We have a view of the beach out one side and the airplane out the other which is very comforting
to us. We have heard the many horror stories about the strange disappearance of aircraft in the Mexican Triangle so we came
armed with a prop lock, throttle lock, special non-Cessna standard door and baggage locks, our cockpit cover and a blanket
covering our panel of toys. We also came equipped with our own tie-downs as neither wheel chocks nor tie downs are standard
equipment on the island.
After our swim we headed off to town for dinner. Victor offered to call us a cab
but we figured that the walk would be good. One could cover the whole town in about a day here. The streets are all dirt and
there is nary a car in sight. The cabs are golf carts, as are most of the other forms of private transportation. Victor recommended
Edelyn’s for dinner down next to the town center which was completely destroyed by the storm and in the process of being
rebuilt. Mario and Vern had the Mexican version of a Cuban sandwich - very large and filling - and I had a grilled chicken
salad. We had lemonade and sodas and ice cream for dessert and the bill was $20.
We finished out the day wandering
about the streets and just taking in the sights. Most of the hotels here are thatched roofs and quite small. I think we have
one of the few hotels with air conditioning. The people of the island are very friendly and hard working. There is still much
work to be done after the storm but all give a friendly hello as we pass by. Tomorrow is my day to see whale sharks. I have
tried on many occasions but I feel that the chances of success here are all but guaranteed as every place we pass we see signs
for the whale shark tours. Tonight, however, we rest, relieved that the boogie-man is no more.
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| Breaking the Coastline over Fort Myers Beach, FL |

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| First Sight of Land - WHEW!!! |

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| We were "David" Surrounded by "Goliaths" |

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| Cancun, Mexico |

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| Holbox Island - Can you spot the Runway??? |

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| Gear Down, Flaps Down, Cleared to Land |

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| Holbox Terminal |

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| Hotel Puerto Holbox |

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| The Hotel was Next to the Airport |

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| "Lawn Mower" hard at Work! |
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Whale Sharks: The plan for today had nothing to do with airplanes but everything to do
with fun. I have been trying to see and swim with whale sharks in the wild for several years and today the “all but
guaranteed” was guaranteed. Success!!! Victor had delivered to our room a basic but more than satisfying continental
breakfast to get us going. The tour operator came following behind to collect us in the golf cart to carry us down to the
other end of town to catch the boat for the whale shark tour. There were probably a dozen or so boats each sporting a captain
and guide/mate; and each carrying about 6 - 10 whale shark watchers.
We motored out about 1-½ hours
toward the feeding grounds for the whale sharks. Along the way, our captain by-passed the close to shore route in favor of
the sea side route to favor us with an array of dancing dolphins which we passed on the way. The Captain would holler out
and point then clap and whistle as if he were applauding the aerobatic maneuvers of these graceful animals. Most of the dolphins
just surfaced for air but some leapt out of the water in a spinning, twisting dance. They would play for a few brief moments
then swim on, like street entertainers looking for their next passing audience.
We seemed to be the last
boat to arrive at the feeding grounds. Apparently, the rule is one boat per shark; so if you see another boat near the whale
shark you must back off. The other rules are fairly basic as well: only the guide and 2 snorkelers in the water with the whale
shark; keep a distance of 2 meters and do not touch. The captain called for the first 2 swimmers and I was ready with camera
in hand. We had earlier passed by a smaller “baby” - only about 20-25’. This one was quite large by comparison,
closer to 40’ and right at the surface with his huge mouth skimming the water for krill and plankton. The mouth is probably
a good 2-½ to 3’ wide although it does not open very much considering the width. The Captain put me in next to
this magnificent creature and I swam parallel to him as hard as I could just to fall farther and farther behind. The movement
of this creature was so smooth and effortless with one long swish of his mighty tail, he would propel himself in a graceful
glide through the water at the surface. Soon, I saw nothing but tail. I came up and paused, waiting for his return. This elusive
interplay continued for a couple of hours until all the divers had been on a first round to see the whale sharks, then those
who wished a second encounter were permitted again, two by two. I jumped in with Mario and immediately came face to face with
another whale shark. I grabbed Mario by the hand and dragged him over to the shark as it opened his mouth for another gulp
of breakfast. In a minute or so Mario had his fill of the sharks and returned to the boat and I continued on with a fresh
swimmer in the water. We had 2 sharks coming by and I was determined to keep up with one. I chose the big one next to me and
fined like mad to maintain my pace, snapping photos in the blind as I tried to match speed and maintain my distance. As I
was no match, I tried to out maneuver the shark on his turn for another gulp and caught up with him again only to be left
in his wake after a few minutes. But I was happy. My pursuit had paid off and I smiled for the swim back to the boat. Mission
accomplished.
On the journey back we encountered more dancing dolphins and a school of yellow stingrays. I had never
seen so many like that swimming in a school - usually I have seen them solo in the Keys while I have been diving. We arrived
back at the dock safe and sound and very content.
An early dinner was now in order. We showered up and departed
for the Refugio de los Piratas or the Pirate’s Refuge. We had found this place after we ate yesterday and the hostess
was quite interesting. She is from New Zealand and came to Holbox about 4 months ago to run the restaurant and is planning
on making the Island her permanent home. We enjoyed burger tacos, grilled chicken and salads and strawberry ice cream. We
elected to eat up on the second floor which was a covered rooftop with a wonderful breeze to keep us cool. I have to say the
breeze was more refreshing than our cold drinks at that point.
By the time we finished dinner it was nearly 5 p.m..
We wanted to check out the internet cafe to see if we could get some information on the weather as we wanted to make a little
flight over the island the next morning. We called up the Weather Channel to see that Ernesto is in the Caribbean and headed
generally in our direction. Hmmmm. According with the forecast, the eye should be crossing the channel between Yucatan Peninsula
and the Keys “Monday p.m.”. We are not so sure we like to be that close to a storm and with a Monday morning departure,
we started talking that it might be best to depart tomorrow and well out ahead of the storm as we have to make the stop in
Key West for customs. We check a few more weather web sites and made the decision to leave. A friend left his plane in Marathon
due to inclement weather last week and asked that we pick it up on the way home; and we wanted to stop in Tavernier for lunch
at Calypso’s and to check on the house so the day will be a long one; and the day early will give us the opportunity
to accomplish what we want and give us some cushion for the Hurricane and afternoon storms which always blow up over south
Florida. We can spend the night in the Keys and still come back on a short day Monday morning still ahead of the storm if
need be.
We make a beeline back to the hotel to locate Victor. He is the local airport authority and had
already gotten us permission for the flight seeing for Sunday morning. We asked him to make arrangements for us to depart
after our flight over the island so we could go back to Cancun for customs then on to Key West. He will take care of the arrangements.
We stayed on to chat with Victor for a moment about the differences of flying in Mexico and in the United States. We really
do not realize how wonderful it is to wake up in the morning, cast our eyes upon the sky, declare it to be a good day to fly
and take off with little more planning than that to wherever the tail wind takes us for the day. We have no flight plans to
file; no permission to seek. Our only limits are ourselves. Mexican general aviation is not so fortunate. There are few planes
who come to the Island here and the traffic all over is light. Shame on us for not taking full advantage of the freedoms we
have to explore our world with little to no effort at all.
We concluded with Victor by exchanging some pleasantries
and business cards. He welcomes fellow Burger Hunters to come to the paradise of Mexico and will gladly fly you in to Holbox
if the 2100’ dirt strip is not for you. We retired to the rooms to nap and pack for the morning flight out.
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| Whale Shark feeding |

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| my Close Encounter |

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| Holbox Transportation |
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| Nothing But Blue |

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| Yucatan Peninsula Coastline |
Home Too Soon: Well, I guess to say that Holbox was a place to relax
for us is an understatement. Seems that I was the last one to sleep last night at about 6:00 p.m. local time. Mario woke me
up in the middle of the night to get his medications and we both crashed quite promptly after that. It was a very peaceful
place and with the contentment of having been swimming with my whale sharks, life could not be better.
We woke up before the sun (imagine that), grabbed our breakfast, loaded Wild Mama and set off for Cancun.
As we had already arranged for our little flight seeing, we figured it would be a waste not to take advantage. Departeing
runway 3 - having back taxied to be sure the “local lawn mowers” were no longer grazing on the runway - we headed
out about 45 degrees for 20 miles to the location where we had been swimming with the whale sharks the day before. We crossed
over Mosquito Point and a large marshy area which comprises most of the island and went screaming past the boats who graciously
pointed us in the proper direction to locate the whale sharks. We spied the school of yellow stingrays which we had passed
on the way back to port yesterday and saw many schools of dolphin still hard at play.
Right
on schedule, and thanks to the early boat tours, we arrived at the whale shark feeding grounds and suddenly realized why they
were there. The feeding ground is at the junction of where the Gulf of Mexico meets the Yucatan Channel. The two water bodies
sport two distinctive colors which create a line of demarcation where they meet and, apparently, a convergence of food for
the whale sharks. From 1000’, one could see the eerie black silhouettes of these mammoth creatures dwarfing the boats
and the swimmers next to them. After circling for a few minutes, we re-joined the 316 radial of Cancun at AMITA intersection
and inbound for Cancun and customs clearance.
Cancun approach control was our first
point of contact. We gave our position report and responded to his inquiry of the origin of our flight. Apparently, the island
of Holbox is properly pronounced hol-bosh; and not hol-box as we had been accustomed to saying. ATC could not determine the
origin of our flight at first, but upon our proper pronunciation, he realized our flight originated in Mexico and not the
US as he had previously thought. Ambiguities resolved, he handed us off to the tower and we landed and headed off to Asur
and customs without delay.
Asur again readily greeted us at the aircraft even though
our arrival today was not expected. They ushered us to the passport control, flight planning and weather department, and FBO
services desk. All of our paperwork was handled efficiently, Wild Mama was refueled, new IFR plan was filed, we made our call
to Key West Customs to announce our anticipated arrival and we were ready to depart. A note about the routing out of Cancun:
We had requested the same route by which we arrived and were advised that was an inbound only route. The outbound route “which
everyone takes” took us through the inner ADIZ of Cuba and we refused the route. We opted for a departure on B 881 to
the north to ROBIN intersection, then on B 646 through CANOA and on to Key West. This route was approved for our IFR plan.
So here we are, packed and sitting on the ramp at Customs in Cancun. We call Cancun ground
for our clearance and get something like “Cleared to ROBIN by B881, 12A Departure, maintain 7,000, expect 9,000 then
direct to Key West” . . . I did the read back as I had heard and got a “read-back correct”. Well, what the
heck is the 12A departure??? We consulted our Jeppesen Mexico trip kit and found three _____ 2 Alpha departures. We called
back for clarification and got the Samed 2 Alpha departure. Well I never had one of those before. OK - straight out 124 degrees
for 8 DME to 7,000’, then left turn to join the 11 DME arc to the assigned radial. Hmmmm. . . Let’s see if it
is in the GPS because that one will be fun to fly. Got it. Programmed it. “Cancun Ground: 4 Whisky Mike ready to taxi”.
Once again we were sandwiched in between 2 very large aircraft; and once again we
were told to “line up on the runway and wait”. Off we went. Almost immediately, we received an instruction, “left
turn”. We complied and heard nothing else. We apparently lost radio contact and, I can only imagine, the big jet behind
us was left to the Samed 2 Alpha departure without having to run over top of us. With no other directions, we turned on course
and kept trying to raise departure without success.
On the inbound trip, we had taken the time
to write all the frequencies we had been assigned, figuring it might help in the event of lost communication over the water.
Boy did that come in handy. We dialed in the frequency we had used for Merida Center on the inbound and there was ATC “radar
contact”. Music to our ears.
We made the remainder of the trip in the same manner
as the trip south - extremely uneventfully. We chuckled to ourselves listening to even the professional pilots struggle with
some of the ATC instructions from the controllers with accents. We did not feel so bad that we had asked for a couple of repeat
instructions over the course of our journey.
 
We arrived at Key West and pulled into the Customs parking box at the exact moment we had advised: 1750 z. The
agents greeted us and had us empty the luggage compartment and checked over all our bags. I had previously prepared all the
necessary forms to file with customs - we had picked up extras on our trip to the Bahamas. They ushered us inside, chit-chatted
for a few minutes, offered us a copy of the US Customs book and we departed within 2 or 3 minutes. That was fast! We departed
Key West for Tavernaero and a visit to our favorite restaurant, Calypso’s in Key Largo.
 
After our favorite meal (coconut crusted butter pecan snapper with fired corn on the cob), we dashed off to the
house for hurricane preparations for the remainder of the day. Tomorrow we will make an early departure to Marathon where
we will fetch Eli’s plane to ferry back to LaBelle for safe keeping during the storm; then for us, off to Tennessee!
... it's all about the plane!
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